Monday, July 19, 2010
Baby Got Back: Fanny & Waist
If you have an over-waistline bulge, jackets and cardigans are your friend. Avoid tight waistlines, tuck-in styles, closely fitted styles and contrasting or wide belts.
If you have a small waist, you're the lucky one who can have fun with belts. For the women: if your tiny waist is in the middle of an hourglass figure, with large bust & hips, take care not to look too nipped-in, or you will accentuate those other features. A gentle taper, with perhaps a tie belt, is your best look.
If your waist is wide, there's no point in calling attention to it. Use belts audaciously, keeping them narrow and the same color or fabric as the garment. Make use of the one-waist look with an over blouse or perhaps a second layer such as a loose vest or sweater. For ladies: Simply have a seam at the waist with no belt on one-piece garments. Look for princes styles or high- or low-waisted dresses.
A short-waisted individual would be wise to use a narrow self belt or no belt. If your waist is high, you need to leave as much room as possible between your chest and your waistline. For you, a gentle taper under the chest is effective in lengthening your midriff. When you wear separates, choose your belt to match your top, rather than your pants (or skirt). This trick adds length to your waist. Pants (and skirts) cut without a waistband are your best bet.
For a long waist, do the opposite. Unless your waist is large, use wide belts that match the color of your pant (skirt), thus bringing the eye up. Choose pants (and skirts) with waistbands, including high-waisted bands. You can also cheat a little with your waist seams, raising them half an inch or so above your real waistline.
An ample derrière limits the number of styles you can wear, but is a fairly easy figure problem to cover. Be sure your pants fit properly, so they do not cup under the seat. The fit should be loose enough over your thighs to allow the fabric to flow smoothly from the fanny to the leg. For women: choose skirts with some fullness or an A-line, rather than a straight skirt.
The style of your jacket is important, and a softly fitted jacket, moderately tapered, is always your best bet. A box jacket, with its straight lines, will not work with a large derrière (Women, you may be able to wear the box jacket but only if it is short, above the crest of your fanny, and worn with a pleated or flared skirt). Avoid a box jacket altogether with pants. A tightly fitted jacket is equally unflattering, because it accentuates the curve of your fanny. Never wear a too-long jacket as an attempt to “cover up”. The length of your jacket must be determined from the front; it should be proportional to your total height and the length of your legs. A jacket that is too long for you only succeeds in making your legs look short and your body look to-heavy; you will ruin your total look. Instead, look proportioned and be sure your pants fit properly in back.
If your problem is a derrière that is too flat, you may wear a tapered or box jacket, but a closely fitted jacket is too form-fitting. Why not let the taper of your jacket suggest what is (or isn't) really there. (Of course, there are undergarment products if you really need to add some padding). Women, another option for you is to wear a skirt or dress with some fullness or a two-piece outfit that adds extra layers where it counts.
If you have a flat derrière, one that drops, or a curved (sway) back, you will need to alter your pants (and skirts) by removing excess fabric from the waistline in back. A pant (or skirt) that droops or cups in back is unflattering to any problem fanny.
One final note on the fanny: by the time you are thirty, gravity has usually worked its will and your fanny has dropped three inches or so. Check your shorts (and for women tennis dresses) for length in back as well as in front!
Next week, I'll be sharing more tips for other body curves-hips and bust/chest.