Cotton Abayas Collection Launched!

I never imagined back in my design school days, that one day I would be designing abayas. But I've really enjoyed this design project and have proudly created a line of cotton abayas. The fabric is perfect for the hot weather that is associated with parts of the Middle East and Northern Africa. The cotton abayas are so lightweight and are very comfortable! Luckily I was able to find a crimped cotton fabric so ironing could be excused. (I hope to find a similar process for linen).

I've spent time developing the designs, making samples and test wearing them. I made sure that all the fabrics were pre-shrunk and pre-washed. It was encouraging for me as I often received compliments, during my trial wearing of the designs, so I am happy with the introductory pieces. I hope that this venture is successful as I have many more creative ideas for abayas! Please check them out on my portfolio website at www.thredsbysandra.com/custom-abayas/

Holiday 2010 Trends!

I just love the holidays! All the parties means lots of dressing up and looking your best! This year the trend is all about having that sparkle! Whether in colors or embellishments. Gold, silver and bronze are staple colors this holiday season. Sequins, sequins and more sequins. You'll see lots of belts and rouched tops. Mini skirts, overlay dresses and jump suits available in silk, crepe, tulle are all designed to sparkle for that festive touch. For a holiday party, just pair a sparking blazer or sweater with a jewel tone or black dress (or pant/skirt & top combo).

Similarly, accessories are also made to sparkle: like sequin embellished belts, silver pumps and crystal studded hair bands. Jewelry is another easy way to add sparkle to your holiday wardrobe. Bracelets are bold and chunky while the preferred necklace this holiday season are chains and ribbons. So when it comes to the holidays make sure you don't overdo the glitz but add just an elegant touch of sparkle!

Beauty is in the Eye of the beholder!

This is the last article in a series on physical features to consider when choosing a flattering hairstyle. In addition, I wanted to write about how to select eye wear that will emphasize your natural good looks.

Wide-Set Eyes
Eyes set far apart are usually found with round, square or strong cheek-bone features. The objectivie of the hair style is to effet a better balance for the face and to minimize the effect of the wide space between the eyes.

One way to minimize the wide-set eyes, is to lift and fluff (volumize) the top hair into a side bang. The other side is styled into a dip wave. The rest of the hairstyle is fluff (volume) and arranged to nestle under, toward the head. The entire hairstyle gives the appearance of minimizing space between the eyes. In other words, avoid a straight part down the middle which will emphasize the space between the eyes. Just having a side part in your hairline will make a difference.

Close-Set Eyes
Close-set eyes are usually found in oval or long, narrow face. The objective of the hairstyle is to open up the appearance of the face and to create the illusion of more space between the eyes. For example, the top crown hair can be styled high to create a pyramid effect. The side movement may fall over either brow, according to your prference, with hair turned outward and up. The other side of the hair is styled away from the face which will give the eyes the appearance of being wider apart. Just pulling hair away from the face to add volume on the sides will naturally draw the eye outwards creating a visual effect of width between the eyes.

Those who wear glasses should be especially careful in their hairstyle choices. A combination of a flattering hairstyle and correct glasses should blend together to develop and emphasize the wearer's flattering features. To the beholder, a face wearing glasses can take on an individualistic, special charm, if all the elements are in proper harmony.

Here are some basic rules for glasses:
* Glasses should be modern, and lenses ensure proper vision.
* Never wear guady, over-jewelled, or tricky frames.
* For women, do not wear strip false eyelashes. They are too long and function like windshield wipers with every eye movement. Also avoid heavy eye makeup. it does not require heavy makeup to bring out the color and the best features of your eyes.
* Hairstyles that fall naturally around the face, make putting on and taking glasses off easy.
* Over-styled hair (and for women many tight curls) is impractical to wear with glasses.

There are numerous "do's" and "don'ts" in every area of hair and facial apperance. The following are designed to illustrate some of the "do's" for those who must wear glasses.

Round, Oval or Square Face
Glasses: With big eyes choose slender frames with large visual lenses to show off eyes. Color of frames should be slected carefully to flatter hair color.
Hair style: Wear a style with volume on top, to create natural balance, a simple, uncluttered style that is casual but chic/modern.
Bangs: Wear a slashed bang freely touching the eyebrows.
Jewelry (women): If earrings are worn, they should be long and dangling.

Heart-Shape or Diamond-Shape Face
Glasses: Wear smart, slender frames that follow or give a lift to the eyebrows. The frames should be of medium thickness to rest gently against the face.
Hairstyle: Wear so volume increases the width in the lower part of the face. For example, women may choose a full page boy style.
Bangs: Wear open, chic/modern bangs which harmonize and balance with the lower part of the face.

The Small, Narrow or Oval Face
Glasses: Select large, modern frames that are not too exotic or gaudy.
Hairstyle: Since the face is delicate in proportion, it is important that the hairstyle have width and height. The hairstyle should be short and allow freedom for control of glasses. For women, use deep waves and flip curls placed well back of the ears and ending lower at the nape.
Bangs: A side wave bang caressing one eyebrow can compliment the eyes.

Pear-Shape Face
Glasses: Wear large, oval-shaped frames to let glasses reveal eyes.
Hairstle: The facial contoour requires emphasis on length, therefore, wear hair up and off the face, high in the front and crown. For women, to reduce width try a soft bouffant styling (volume on crown) around the face with softness brushed forward on the cheeks.
Bangs: A side wave bang over one eye will add expression and interest.

Proper hairstyling and a selection of suitable and flattering glasses will emphasize your natural attractiveness. Remember to choose colors that are in your Color Season (see previous blog posting series about identifying which color season you are).

Next week, I want to talk about the holiday trends!

Who nose best?

Last week we talked about different head shapes and profiles in relation to choosing a flattering hairstyle. While on the subject of profiles, I wanted to include a bit about nose shapes as an additional consideration. Then I will discuss other special considerations to keep in mind when deciding what haircut to get and how to style your hair.

Closely allied to any profile analysis, in fact a very important part of such, is the shape of the nose which must be considered both in profile and in full face.

Turned Up Nose
This type of nose is usually small and accompanied by a straight profile. To overcome this, the hair should be swept back off the face at the sides, lengthening the line from the nose to the ear. Top hair is given a forward movement to minimize the appearance of the turned-up nose.

Prominent Nose
A hooked nose, a large nose, or a pointed nose, all come under this classification. Plan to draw as much attention as possible away from these features. To minimize the prominence of the nose, bring the hair forward at the forehead with softness around the face.

Crooked Nose
To minimize the conscious crooked nose, style the hair in an off center manner which will attract away from the nose.

Flat Nose
A wide, flat nose tends to broaden the face. In order to minimize this effect, the hair should be drawn away from the face. A hairstyle with a middle part (and double curled bangs) will draw attention away from the nose.

Besides your nose, you may have some of these other special features:

Plump with Short Neck
Aim: To create illusion of length.
Correct Hairstyle: For the forehead, use forward bangs. Style the crown high to lend the illusion of length. Waved-in sides create a slender effect. A smooth head-hugging napeline emphasizes slenderness from the back and side view. Avoid hairstyles that give fullness to the nape area.

Long, Thin Neck
Aim: To minimize the appearance of a long neck.
Correct Hairstyle: Cover the neck (with soft waves or curls). Avoid styling the hair up from the back of the neck. Keep the nape hair long.

Thin Features
Aim: To minimize thinness of facial features and neck length.
Correct hairstyle: A high, soft crownline, with the sides lifted up and out from the hairline and brushed loosely forward onto the cheeks, will create a softening effect for the face, and develop a soft, fluffy effect at the forehead. keep the nape hair long and full to offset the long, thin neck.

Uneven Features
Aim: To minimize the imperfect features.
Correct Hairstyle: Uneven features can be minimized by selection of the proper hairstyle. For example, a soft effect over protruding features, there by creating evenness on both sides of the face.

African American Features
Follow styling rules that relate to each particular shape.

Styling the hair for women. It may be accompanied by one of two different methods of hair straightening or relaxing.
Chemically relaxed. The hair should be wet set with rollers and pin curls. It is then dried and combed out in the usual manner.
Thermal straighted (pressed). Use large barrel curls or curl with thermal (marcel) irons. T hen comb the hair into a suitable style.

Oriental Features
Follow hairstyling rules that relate to the particular face shape.

For women, the oriental hairstyle is very versatile in that it may be combed into a side-upward movement, or into a loose fluffy page-boy style. This is achieved by following the hair outward or inward.

Next week, I'll finish this series with a discussion on eyes and styling for those who wear glasses.

Heads Up! Show me that Profile!

Last week I introduced the various facial types: Oval, Round, Square, Pear, Oblong, Diamond and Heart-Shape. In addition, I gave a description of the facial contour, to help you identify which face shape you have. As well, as what to aim for in your hairstyle to create balance and proportion to your face. Besides face type, there are two other factors to consider when choosing a hairstyle to ensure it flatters you. I will discuss those two points today: Profiles and Head Shapes. Next week, I'll address specific concerns that you may have.

The shape of one's head has just as many variations as the rest of one's physical features. Again the oval is considered the perfect shape. Your objective is to choose a hairstyle that will produce this shape by skilfully shaping and arranging the hair. For example, where there is flatness, the volume of the hair should be adjusted to fill the area. The complete outside shape of your hairstyle may be fashioned into many patterns and designs as long as the head shape has been ovalized.

The attached illustration (lower half) depicts the six head shapes. The heavy lines on the diagram outline the actual shape of the head, and the shaded areas (above the head) indicate where volume is required. In case you can't read the writing on the picture: the top row, right to left, are perfect shape, narrow head, flat crown. Then the bottom row, right to left are pointed head, flat top, small head. Again, the head shapes are as follows:

Head Shapes:
1) The perfect head shape (oval)
2) Narrow head, flat back.
3) The flat crown.
4) The pointed head shape, hollow nape.
5) The flat top.
6) Small head

The four profiles are described below and are illustrated on the attached diagram (upper half):

1) Straight: Usually, all hairstyles are becoming to the straight or normal profile. A normal profile is neither concave nor convex. It contains neither a prominent protrusion nor a receding feature.

2) Concave-Prominent Chin: A close hair arrangement or bangs over the forehead minimizes the bulginess of the forehead. The hair at the sides and nape of the neck can be dressed in soft waves or (for ladies) soft curls to soften the features.

3) Convex-Receding Forehead, Prominent Nose, And Receding Chin: Bangs (or curl) should be placed forward on the forehead to conceal the receding forehead and irregular hairline. The hair at the sides and nape of the neck should be dressed close to the head to give it perfect balance.

4) Low Forehead, Protruding Chin: To create the illusion of height to a low forehead and length to the face, the hair should be dressed high on the top of the head with bangs (or curls) on the forehead. An upsweet movement in the temple area with soft hair arrangement over the jawline will soften the sharpness of the chin.

Hopefully with these descriptions of profiles, head shapes [and last week] facial shapes you are able to identify which haircut/hairstyle would be most flattering to you!

Next week I'll address specific considerations including: nose shapes, uneven features, short/long necks, ethnic features. Then I'll conclude this series with a discussion on eyes (wide or close set) and flattering glasses.

To 'Do or Not to 'Do-Choose your Hairdo wisely!

If you have watched a style program, such as "What Not To Wear" (both the US and UK versions) or "How do I Look?" on the Style network, you know that the makeover process goes beyond wardrobe and accessories to include hair & make-up. Though I'm not a cosmetologist, as part of my fashion background I do know what physical features are taken into consideration by the pros. So I thought I would do some articles to discuss how your hairstyle and even glasses can visually create proportion to your face and ensure your appearance best suits you as an individual.

I will discuss the three key components for a flattering hairstyle: Facial type, profiles, and head shapes. Then I will touch on more specific physical attributes such as eyes, neck, nose and ethnic facial features in relation to creating balance in your appearance through hairstyling choices. Make-up is an additional tool that can help you create balance in your facial appearance-that will be discussed in another series later on.

Let's begin by presenting the different facial types. Facial types are determined by the position and prominence of the facial bones. There are seven facial types: oval, round, square, oblong, pear shape, heart shape, and diamond. To recognize each facial type and consequently choose the best hairstyle to frame your face, here are the outstanding characteristics of each:

Oval Face
The oval type is generally accepted as the perfect face. The contour and proportions of the oval face form the basis for modifying all other facial types.
Facial Contour: The oval face is about one and half times longer than its width across the brow; the forehead is slightly wider than the chin.
Any style can be worn as there are no features to minimize.

Round Facial Type
Facial Contour : Round hairline and round chinline.
Aim: To create the illusion of length to the face.
For instance, arranging the hair on top of the head and dressed over the ears and part of the cheeks with bangs to one side, will help to minimize the roundness of the face.

Square Facial Type
Facial Contour: Straight hairline and square jawline.
Aim: to create the illusion of length and offset the squareness of the features.
The problems of the square facial type are similar to those of the round. The style should lift off the forehead and come forward at the sides (and jaw), to create the illusion of narrowness and softness in the face.

Pear-Shape Facial Type
Facial Contour: Narrow forehead, wide jawline and chinline.
Aim: To create the illusion of width in the forehead.
Keep the hair dressed fairly full and high. Partially cover the forehead with a fringe of waved hair. For women, the hair should be worn with a semi-curl or soft-wave effect over the lower jawline. This arrangement will add apparent width to the forehead.

Oblong Facial Type:
Facial Contour: Long, narrow face with hallow cheeks.
Aim: To make the face appear shorter and wider.
The hair should be styled fairly close to the top of the head with a fringe of bangs (or curls), combined with fullness at the sides. The length of the face will appear reduced.

Diamond Facial Type
Facial Contour: Narrow forehead, extreme width through the cheekbones, and narrow chin.
Aim: To reduce the width across the cheekbone line.
Increasing the fullness across the forehead (and at the jawline), while keeping the hair close to the head at the cheekbone line will help to create the illusion of ovalness to the face.

Heart-Shape Facial Type
Facial Contour: Wide forehead and narrow chinline.
Aim: To decrease the width of the forehead and increase the width in the lower part of the face.
To reduce the width of the forehead, a hairstyle with a center part with bangs rolled up or a style slanted to one side is recommended. Women, add width and softness at the jawline.

Abaya Collection!

I've been busy finishing up a collection of abayas! I had the idea to make them out of cotton fabric which is much more comfortable to wear in a very hot and humid climate. Abayas are generally manufactured in synthetic fabrics as they are less likely to wrinkle and perhaps have some cost savings as well. However, the effect on the body of being encased in 100% polyester in 120 degree Fahrenheit and 95% humidity weather is almost unbearable! Especially because the synthetic fibers do not allow for easy air flow; this results in the wearer's body heat essentially being trapped and thus accelerates the increase of body temperature for the wearer. To add to the “sauna effect” the abayas sold in countries like Saudi Arabia are almost exclusively available in black.

In other areas of the world abayas come in various colors, silhouettes and designs. As long as the abaya accomplishes it's purpose (to ensure that a woman's body is covered and that her figure can not be easily recognized) one still has plenty of options in regards to fashion design. Recently, in the strict country of Saudi Arabia, variants of the abaya in color and shape are beginning to emerge. Abayas in colors such as dark chocolate brown and deep navy blue have been spotted around the more liberal cities of the country. Fashion forward young women have chosen to wear abayas in different silhouettes such as belted and even gaucho pant styles. However the women who dare to venture out in public wearing these different colors and styles are still very much a minority group. Black colored and extremely loose cut abayas are the accepted (and perhaps expected) style worn by the majority of women in Saudi Arabia.

So I decided in my line of cotton abayas, for Saudi residents, to maintain a black base in the color palette. However, I had to add splashes of color here and there on individual designs, throughout the collection. But I was careful in the placement of those colors on the abayas. To stay conservative I've kept them in a very full loose cut. To lessen the burden of having to iron the abayas I intentionally used a crinkled cotton fabric. I hope my customers are pleased with the line! If anything I know they will be happy to wear cotton in such an unforgiving climate. It has been an enjoyable design project for myself and depending on the reaction from customers, perhaps I will find myself doing more abaya designs.