Now and Again

Dear Readers:

Due to my current freelance project work, graduate studies coursework & exams, upcoming international travels and search for a summer marketing opportunity my dedication to this blog has been significantly impacted. I will therefore resume regular weekly postings as soon as possible. Thanks for your regular interest and support of thREDs by Sandra blog!

Regards,

thREDs by Sandra

Fall 2011 Trends: Fashion Royalty Speaks

So we've seen the best that the top designers in the world have put together for the Fall 2011 fashion lines with the latest round of fashion shows in Milan, New York, Paris and London. I would some up the season with two pervasive thoughts: Multi-Colored Prints; Long & Lean.

Multi-colored prints in stripes, polka dots, plaids and more.

Separates that mix and match. Wrap blouses.

Retro-inspired suits; pant suits; wide leg trousers.

Below the knee, mid-calf and full length skirts. High slits.

Duster coats; ponchos or cape coats

Earthy tones contrasted with bright blue and red hues

Black leather, skinny belts, long sleeve dresses, high & bow necklines

70s inspiration

Function & luxury

It's going to be a great season! If you missed the latest designer shows here.

I know there many some of you may be wondering what the connection could ever be between the clothes in your closet and what models in designer fashion shows wear. I think there is a great clip in the movie "Devil Wears Prada" which briefly explains this relationship.

By the way, the "Devil Wears Prada" is a great movie to watch to get an insight into the fashion world. The movie is based on a book written by Lauren Weisberger who was a former assistant of Anna Wintour, who is the editor-in-chief of Vogue. Anyhow, the movie is about a naive young woman, Andy Sachs who is played by Anne Hathaway, that comes to New York and scores a job as the assistant to one of the city's biggest fashion magazine editors, Miranda Priestly, who is played by Merlyl Street. There is a scene that is a turning point in the movie. In the scene Andy laughs aloud in reaction to what she feels is ridiculousness when an assistant states how different two belts are that are nearly identical. Miranda is not amused by Andy's lack of respect for high fashion and therefore tells her the following in response (sorry couldn't find the clip):

This... 'stuff'? Oh... ok. I see, you think this has nothing to do with you. You go to your closet and you select out, oh I don't know, that lumpy blue sweater, for instance, because you're trying to tell the world that you take yourself too seriously to care about what you put on your back. But what you don't know is that that sweater is not just blue, it's not turquoise, it's not lapis, it's actually cerulean. You're also blithely unaware of the fact that in 2002, Oscar De La Renta did a collection of cerulean gowns. And then I think it was Yves St Laurent, wasn't it, who showed cerulean military jackets? I think we need a jacket here. And then cerulean quickly showed up in the collections of 8 different designers. Then it filtered down through the department stores and then trickled on down into some tragic casual corner where you, no doubt, fished it out of some clearance bin. However, that blue represents millions of dollars and countless jobs and so it's sort of comical how you think that you've made a choice that exempts you from the fashion industry when, in fact, you're wearing the sweater that was selected for you by the people in this room. From a pile of stuff.

I think the above gets the point across rather harshly. But truth is we wear clothing. Many of us buy our clothes instead of make them. Hence we are forever connected to the fashion industry and thus subject to the dictations of the fashion royalty.

Fashion Innovation: Wearable Technology

I liked the wearable technology that the Black Eyed Peas incorporated into their recent Super Bowl half-time performance. Wearable technology is an industry that's existed since the 1980's however due to technological advancements today-it is an industry that is on the cusp of emerging into products that can be distributed globally to the average consumer. Beyond personal usage; sports, medical and armed forces are particularly interested in the possibilities of wearable technology within their industries.

Here is a quick break down of categories that wearable technology is being designed for:

Entertainment & communications systems. The integration of products like Bluetooth, wireless, Ipod and more. For example, the controls for such devices are located on the sleeve of your coat or jacket.

Garment heating systems. These products are especially helpful in cold weather as gloves, boots, scarves and so forth monitor heat and adjust as needed to keep wearer's comfortable.

Solar & other mobile power systems. For instance, clothes that have the capability to absorb solar power so you can re-charge your mobile devices while you're out during the day.

Lighting solutions. Beyond the obvious use by celebrities in performances and appearances (Katy Perry, Black Eyed Peas, Kanye West, U2, Lady Gaga, Rhianna, etc.) your average bikers and runners benefit from this type of clothing as drivers can spot them easier in the dark.

Textile interconnection. E-textiles or electronic textiles in which the fabric enables computing and digital components to be embedded in them. This is often referenced as smart clothing. One example, is the "Smarty Pants" that has motion sensors embedded in the cloth that tracks velocity, rotation and flexibility of the fabric and send sends the data to a wireless compute for analysis. This product is being considered for use in the medical field to evaluate patient's movements.

Just imagine one day in the near future....an early morning jogger sets out: wearing a pair of smart pants to track the data of his movements; staying warm with a ClimaWare neck wrap, shoes and jacket; listening to his/her Ipod adjusting the volume and tracks through controls on the jacket sleeves; all while shining brightly with LED battery powered lights that are placed throughout their running attire. That future is just around the corner!

What does that mean exactly?

You may have seen some of these terms on a label for a garment, or even home textile product, but do you know what it really means?

Wrinkle Free & Permanent Press

I clearly remember a sales representative giving a demonstration about wrinkle free men's khaki pants. He would hold up two pairs of pants, both worn on separate business days, to demonstrate how the pant with a wrinkle-free finish had considerably less wrinkles than the untreated pant. He told a story of how one customer complained because the "wrinkle-free" pants had wrinkled; well, "wrinkle-free" can be a misleading term. Both permanent press and wrinkle free products have been chemically treated so the fabric will resist or decrease wrinkling so the surface maintains its shape longer. In other technical words, the chemicals act as catalysts that cross-link polymer chains in cotton weaving, giving the material some elasticity and resilience. However, because of the chemicals used in the treatment the fabric tends to be weakened. So though the pants or shirt may resist wrinkling they may also not last as long as a regular pair of pants or shirt.

Down Fill/Down Feathers

While at Gap, Inc. my boss went on a business trip to Asia where she go to visit some unique factories such as a cashmere factory in Mongolia and a down feather factory in China. I remember her telling us about seeing the process at the down factory; like how the blowers separated the regular top feathers from the down feathers. Actually about 50% of down comes from China and are typically white goose down.

Any how, the down of birds is a layer of fine feathers under the tougher exterior feather. It is the light, fluffy undercoating that waterfowl like geese and ducks have to keep them warm. Therefore it has excellent thermal properties. Hence why down is valued in jackets and bedding. Down gives about three times the warmth per ounce compared to synthetics. Due to its ability to loft, or to fill the space it occupies is greater, longer lasting and more uniform. Down insulation is rated by fill power, measured as the number of cubic inches displaced by a given ounce . Higher fill power downs will thus be better insulators than lower fills-this quality difference accounts for the price difference. Be sure to check that the label says 100% down feather, as some manufacturers will mix down and regular feathers together to save costs. Which will subsequently reduce the warmth and long-term quality of the product.

Thread Count

You generally see this term on labels for cotton products such as cotton sheets or towels. This term brings memories back of my fabric testing and quality course at university when we would count threads in one square inch of fabric. (So the number of threads that are counted in that one inch of square fabric is what the thread count was). That included the number of threads on both the vertical (warp) and horizontal (weft). The higher the count the more fine a fabric is, the lower the more coarse. Good quality sheets are around 150-200.

Some manufacturers will market their products with a very high thread count-be very suspicious of anything with a label of 500 thread count or more. What they probably have done is actually counted the individual threads in a plied yarn. A plied yarn is made by twisting together several fine threads. For instance, the fabric may actually be a 250 thread count but the label will claim 1,000 thread count because they count those individual smaller threads that were twisted together. So in such an instance, there is no difference between the fineness of the fabric of the sheets labeled "1000 thread count" and those of the sheets, perhaps next to it on the shelf in the store, labeled"250 thread count". However, because of the marketing you'll be charged more for the "higher" thread count.

Egyptian Cotton

Egyptian cotton refers to an extra long staple cotton that is grown in Egypt which is more durable and softer than American pima cotton, which is why it is more expensive.

Because a continuous fiber is used when creating the yarns it is actually stronger than most cottons. The yarn is smaller in diameter so it means more yarns can be used per square inch. So the result, is a fabric that is lightweight yet very durable. Egyptian cotton may feel stiff at first but with laundering they soften. Typically less lint is produced during growth of Egyptian cotton and therefore Egyptian cotton fabric products are less likely to pill after laundering like other fabrics.

Organic Cotton

While at Gap, Inc. I went on a field trip, organized by Cotton, Inc., to visit a cotton farm in the San Joaquin Valley. This was actually my first time to see cotton fields in person. I remember the farmer pointing out which fields were cotton and which had organic cotton crops. Unfortunately, it had cost more for him to grow the organic cotton and the demand was much lower than expected, so he told us how he wouldn't be growing organic cotton the next season.

Organic cotton is a better product in terms of the environment but why it costs more for cotton farmers to produce it, is because the growth and yield is reduced significantly due to the abstinence of chemical fertilizers and pesticides. Also, there is other investments that must be made by the grower in order for the cotton to be certified organic. Such as: fields have to go through a three year "cleansing" process; barriers and buzzers must be set up on the fields to detect any contamination from run-off from nearby non-organic fields; and other stipulations must be met in order for the product to be labeled as organic cotton.

But there are people who can and are willing to pay more for organic cotton that compensate for the extra cost that farmers incur who grow organic cotton. Generally these individuals are well aware of the multiple environmental benefits of organic cotton such as: groundwater quality is ensured with no fear of chemical run-offs; no toxic chemicals in the cotton; conservation of biodiversity; and so forth.

Made in the USA

Country of origin must be disclosed on textiles, wool and fur products in the USA. However, there is a difference between "Made in the USA" and "Assembled in the USA". For example, a garment may be nearly finished overseas and the last final and minor touches are completed in the USA so it can technically be marketed as "Made in the USA". However, those garments where the majority, if not all, of the assembly took place in the USA can be labeled "Assembled in the USA". Remember, even if assembly takes place in the USA the actual components, or parts, can be gathered from outside the USA.

Sweat Free

I was actually President of the United Students Against Sweatshops chapter at my university for two years. So I am very familiar with this term. It indicates that the clothing was not made in a sweatshop. A sweatshop will generally have these types of issues:

* Employer does not adhere to labor laws. This is most commonly seen in regards to employees being paid below minimum wage and young children employed whose age is below minimum age.

* Employer does not provide benefits as stipulated either in employment contract or regulated by government. Such as health care, mandated breaks, overtime pay and so forth.

* Poor and hazardous working conditions!!!

* Employees are subject to ongoing abuse and harassment with little or no protection of their rights.

Worsted Wool

Wool has been combed and carded before going into the spinning process to be made into yarn. They do these processed first to removes any short and brittle fibers. Then just the longer strands remain, which are then spun into yarn that is more durable and smooth. Because of the strength and fineness of the yarn clothing made out of worsted wool is very durable and maintains their shape-so they can keep a crease whilst resist wrinkling. That's why lots of your quality woolen suits are made of worsted wool.

What's the difference?

One question I get asked quite frequently is "What's the difference?" For instance, why one pair of jeans may cost $25 at one store and $200 at another. There actually are some differences but how people value those differences vary.

For example, Jantzen uses high quality fabrics and finishes on their swimwear. They also use good construction techniques. Their pattern-makers are highly skilled, so their swimsuits fit very well. So if you want a stylish swimsuit that will last for several years this is a good brand to buy. However, if you just want a trendy swimsuit that will last for the summer season, and you plan to spend more time around the pool rather than in it, than you may want to buy a low price tag swimsuit available at many discount retailers.

I remember when I worked at Gap, Inc. you could see costs differences between Banana Republic, Gap and Old Navy for similar designs. For instance, children's tee shirts in Gap would use embroidery or appliqués where as the same detail would just be a screen print for Old Navy. Another difference was types of fabrics. Such as Banana Republic would carry cashmere sweaters wwhereas Gap & Old Navy would have just cotton or wool.

Many of your boutique shops and designer labels use the best materials available for their clothes. In addition, there may be handiwork involved in creating their designs, such as hand sewing and hand dyeing of fabrics. Clothing may be constructed individually rather than factory mass made. Which means there is more attention to detail and less likely that an error in construction will occur. Of course, haute couture designers use the finest materials and custom-make garments for their clientele, with all sewing being done by hand. But just be aware, the majority of what you pay for designer brands with high prices is the brand name. In fact, a huge part of the mark-up on designer items is based on the fact that these companies know that customers will pay more for their fashion goods because of their brand recognition.

So the quality of fabric, notions (zippers, buttons, snaps), construction, fit, embellishments (appliqués, embroidery, screen prints, etc.), are all little differences between price points on similar garments. I should mention, the level of service you receive in the store is also a factor in the price. Self-service stores will by nature have lower prices than personal selling shops. Lastly, tor designer goods, a large proportion of the price you pay is so you can wear the brand name.

So what you value and are willing to pay for your clothing is up to you. If you are not going to wear the garment long, like seasonal fashion trends, than most likely a low-ticket item is what you need. Just remember the saying, "You get what you pay for".

Ready, Set, Custom Design!

Wow-what has kept me busy for 2 weeks! Besides my Master Degree studies in which the term ends this month-I've been blessed with a wonderful response of design work requests from the community and even residents from the nearest big city.

The launch of the cotton abaya line was very really well received! I am so excited to be working on custom-made abayas. It has been great to meet with clients one-on-one! Many were impressed with the selection of fabrics, fancy ribbons, embroidered borders, etc., in my design studio inventory, that was available for them to pick and choose from for their own abayas. Customers chose which style they wanted for their abaya; the majority choose styles from my website however others had a design of their own in mind. Lastly, clients decided if they wanted the abaya to open up completely in the front with a zipper or snaps, or if they wanted a pullover style (most went with the single snap closure). For measurements, I found it helped the women visualize fit if I had them either try on samples in my studio or bring one of their own abayas. I noticed several ladies commented on how surprisingly lightweight the cotton abayas were [whom tried on samples in the studio]. I can't wait to get them finished, delivered and upload pictures on my portfolio website!

In addition, to abayas, several orders were placed for other garments. Ranging from beautiful dresses made from exotic Asian fabrics to casual embroidered cotton tunic tops. I really enjoy the opportunity to be creative and more involved with these types of design projects. For me, I have always enjoyed the fusion of art and science in fashion design. I am so happy to see a satisfied customer who can wear an outfit that previously was just a picture in their mind. I am equally excited to upload pictures of the gowns and tops!

About every month or so, I get requests to do alterations on existing garments. I must admit that there is virtually zero creativity and therefore a low motivation to accept this type of work. (Besides nearly all your local dry cleaners will do alterations on your clothes). I enjoy the process of seeing a garment come to life; from it's birth of an idea, to choosing fabrics & notions, to drafting pattern pieces and lastly constructing the final result-it is the journey that I thoroughly enjoy and am very passionate about participating in! Hence why I decided to be a designer instead of a tailor or seamstress.

Actually, in the industry, a designer almost never sews or makes patterns. Typically a designer researches trends, prepares a concept board for the season and category for their target market, then makes tech packs that basically communicate all the information about a style to a factory. The designer's description and sketches have to be absolutely precise though in order for a factory to make the garments accurately! Even your haute couture designers, think fashion shows of Paris, New York and Milan, generally have their junior staff make patterns & sew the hand-made garments for their elite clientele. Nowadays, the only time you see professional designers actually making patterns and sewing samples/garments is at small or home-based businesses. Having said that, every designer will tell you that at design school you absolutely must sew and draft patterns of your own work; because it is crucial for a designer to have a thorough understanding and knowledge of clothing construction. As I mentioned, fashion is a combination of art and science. In short, the labor (e.g. pattern-making & sewing/construction) is the science & skill whereas innovation & creativity (e.g. styling, silhouettes, trends, colors, prints, etc.) is the art and talent! As I mentioned, I love being involved in the entire process of bring a garment to life!

Sugar N' Spice: Nail & Skin Trends

Sorry for the delay between blogs. I was having a fabulous time buying fabrics in India and got a great assortment for my design studio inventory. Especially embroidered textiles for the custom-made abayas as well as some other individual designer clothing projects I'm currently working on. Any how...

Fashion & beauty go hand-in-hand. So now and again, I like to write about beauty trends. Luckily, I have a sister that owns a nail and skin care salon, Sugar N' Spice in Saratoga Springs, Utah, USA. So she always keeps me up-to-date on skin & nail trends. Here are just a few of the latest crazes:

I love these nail polish appliqués by Incoco Professional. It's like taking a colored adhesive film and pressing it onto your nail then sculpting away any excess. It may take some practice to apply the strips just right but it's a simple way to create finished nails without using liquid nail polish.

These shrink wrap style designed nails are applied when getting gel or acrylic nails done. Sheekee carries an assortment of fun and bright designs. Similarly, is Minix fashion finger tips. I do like the flag nails-how patriotic.

Celebrity nail polish lines are gaining in popularity. For example, if you like Katy Perry's fashion style, you should check out her collection by OPI. With it's fun assortment of polishes like Teenage Dream (pink sparkle) and The One That Got Away (dark purple). I also like Serena Williams Glam Slam line. I like her cracked or shattered look. It is echoed in China Glaze's line that is available in six colors.

I know my sister has been getting more and more requests for Eye Kandy. It's a way to put glitter in a decorative style on the skin, face and around the eyes. It's a smashing look for those evenings out. The glitter can also be stylized for artificial nails.

The last bit of trend in nail & skin care, Rose Pedicures! So treat yourself to this natural relaxing pedicure when you get a chance!

(I have to mention-that of course all of these trendy services and products area available at the Sugar N' Spice Salon).

Cotton Abayas Collection Launched!

I never imagined back in my design school days, that one day I would be designing abayas. But I've really enjoyed this design project and have proudly created a line of cotton abayas. The fabric is perfect for the hot weather that is associated with parts of the Middle East and Northern Africa. The cotton abayas are so lightweight and are very comfortable! Luckily I was able to find a crimped cotton fabric so ironing could be excused. (I hope to find a similar process for linen).

I've spent time developing the designs, making samples and test wearing them. I made sure that all the fabrics were pre-shrunk and pre-washed. It was encouraging for me as I often received compliments, during my trial wearing of the designs, so I am happy with the introductory pieces. I hope that this venture is successful as I have many more creative ideas for abayas! Please check them out on my portfolio website at www.thredsbysandra.com/custom-abayas/

Holiday 2010 Trends!

I just love the holidays! All the parties means lots of dressing up and looking your best! This year the trend is all about having that sparkle! Whether in colors or embellishments. Gold, silver and bronze are staple colors this holiday season. Sequins, sequins and more sequins. You'll see lots of belts and rouched tops. Mini skirts, overlay dresses and jump suits available in silk, crepe, tulle are all designed to sparkle for that festive touch. For a holiday party, just pair a sparking blazer or sweater with a jewel tone or black dress (or pant/skirt & top combo).

Similarly, accessories are also made to sparkle: like sequin embellished belts, silver pumps and crystal studded hair bands. Jewelry is another easy way to add sparkle to your holiday wardrobe. Bracelets are bold and chunky while the preferred necklace this holiday season are chains and ribbons. So when it comes to the holidays make sure you don't overdo the glitz but add just an elegant touch of sparkle!

Beauty is in the Eye of the beholder!

This is the last article in a series on physical features to consider when choosing a flattering hairstyle. In addition, I wanted to write about how to select eye wear that will emphasize your natural good looks.

Wide-Set Eyes
Eyes set far apart are usually found with round, square or strong cheek-bone features. The objectivie of the hair style is to effet a better balance for the face and to minimize the effect of the wide space between the eyes.

One way to minimize the wide-set eyes, is to lift and fluff (volumize) the top hair into a side bang. The other side is styled into a dip wave. The rest of the hairstyle is fluff (volume) and arranged to nestle under, toward the head. The entire hairstyle gives the appearance of minimizing space between the eyes. In other words, avoid a straight part down the middle which will emphasize the space between the eyes. Just having a side part in your hairline will make a difference.

Close-Set Eyes
Close-set eyes are usually found in oval or long, narrow face. The objective of the hairstyle is to open up the appearance of the face and to create the illusion of more space between the eyes. For example, the top crown hair can be styled high to create a pyramid effect. The side movement may fall over either brow, according to your prference, with hair turned outward and up. The other side of the hair is styled away from the face which will give the eyes the appearance of being wider apart. Just pulling hair away from the face to add volume on the sides will naturally draw the eye outwards creating a visual effect of width between the eyes.

Those who wear glasses should be especially careful in their hairstyle choices. A combination of a flattering hairstyle and correct glasses should blend together to develop and emphasize the wearer's flattering features. To the beholder, a face wearing glasses can take on an individualistic, special charm, if all the elements are in proper harmony.

Here are some basic rules for glasses:
* Glasses should be modern, and lenses ensure proper vision.
* Never wear guady, over-jewelled, or tricky frames.
* For women, do not wear strip false eyelashes. They are too long and function like windshield wipers with every eye movement. Also avoid heavy eye makeup. it does not require heavy makeup to bring out the color and the best features of your eyes.
* Hairstyles that fall naturally around the face, make putting on and taking glasses off easy.
* Over-styled hair (and for women many tight curls) is impractical to wear with glasses.

There are numerous "do's" and "don'ts" in every area of hair and facial apperance. The following are designed to illustrate some of the "do's" for those who must wear glasses.

Round, Oval or Square Face
Glasses: With big eyes choose slender frames with large visual lenses to show off eyes. Color of frames should be slected carefully to flatter hair color.
Hair style: Wear a style with volume on top, to create natural balance, a simple, uncluttered style that is casual but chic/modern.
Bangs: Wear a slashed bang freely touching the eyebrows.
Jewelry (women): If earrings are worn, they should be long and dangling.

Heart-Shape or Diamond-Shape Face
Glasses: Wear smart, slender frames that follow or give a lift to the eyebrows. The frames should be of medium thickness to rest gently against the face.
Hairstyle: Wear so volume increases the width in the lower part of the face. For example, women may choose a full page boy style.
Bangs: Wear open, chic/modern bangs which harmonize and balance with the lower part of the face.

The Small, Narrow or Oval Face
Glasses: Select large, modern frames that are not too exotic or gaudy.
Hairstyle: Since the face is delicate in proportion, it is important that the hairstyle have width and height. The hairstyle should be short and allow freedom for control of glasses. For women, use deep waves and flip curls placed well back of the ears and ending lower at the nape.
Bangs: A side wave bang caressing one eyebrow can compliment the eyes.

Pear-Shape Face
Glasses: Wear large, oval-shaped frames to let glasses reveal eyes.
Hairstle: The facial contoour requires emphasis on length, therefore, wear hair up and off the face, high in the front and crown. For women, to reduce width try a soft bouffant styling (volume on crown) around the face with softness brushed forward on the cheeks.
Bangs: A side wave bang over one eye will add expression and interest.

Proper hairstyling and a selection of suitable and flattering glasses will emphasize your natural attractiveness. Remember to choose colors that are in your Color Season (see previous blog posting series about identifying which color season you are).

Next week, I want to talk about the holiday trends!

Who nose best?

Last week we talked about different head shapes and profiles in relation to choosing a flattering hairstyle. While on the subject of profiles, I wanted to include a bit about nose shapes as an additional consideration. Then I will discuss other special considerations to keep in mind when deciding what haircut to get and how to style your hair.

Closely allied to any profile analysis, in fact a very important part of such, is the shape of the nose which must be considered both in profile and in full face.

Turned Up Nose
This type of nose is usually small and accompanied by a straight profile. To overcome this, the hair should be swept back off the face at the sides, lengthening the line from the nose to the ear. Top hair is given a forward movement to minimize the appearance of the turned-up nose.

Prominent Nose
A hooked nose, a large nose, or a pointed nose, all come under this classification. Plan to draw as much attention as possible away from these features. To minimize the prominence of the nose, bring the hair forward at the forehead with softness around the face.

Crooked Nose
To minimize the conscious crooked nose, style the hair in an off center manner which will attract away from the nose.

Flat Nose
A wide, flat nose tends to broaden the face. In order to minimize this effect, the hair should be drawn away from the face. A hairstyle with a middle part (and double curled bangs) will draw attention away from the nose.

Besides your nose, you may have some of these other special features:

Plump with Short Neck
Aim: To create illusion of length.
Correct Hairstyle: For the forehead, use forward bangs. Style the crown high to lend the illusion of length. Waved-in sides create a slender effect. A smooth head-hugging napeline emphasizes slenderness from the back and side view. Avoid hairstyles that give fullness to the nape area.

Long, Thin Neck
Aim: To minimize the appearance of a long neck.
Correct Hairstyle: Cover the neck (with soft waves or curls). Avoid styling the hair up from the back of the neck. Keep the nape hair long.

Thin Features
Aim: To minimize thinness of facial features and neck length.
Correct hairstyle: A high, soft crownline, with the sides lifted up and out from the hairline and brushed loosely forward onto the cheeks, will create a softening effect for the face, and develop a soft, fluffy effect at the forehead. keep the nape hair long and full to offset the long, thin neck.

Uneven Features
Aim: To minimize the imperfect features.
Correct Hairstyle: Uneven features can be minimized by selection of the proper hairstyle. For example, a soft effect over protruding features, there by creating evenness on both sides of the face.

African American Features
Follow styling rules that relate to each particular shape.

Styling the hair for women. It may be accompanied by one of two different methods of hair straightening or relaxing.
Chemically relaxed. The hair should be wet set with rollers and pin curls. It is then dried and combed out in the usual manner.
Thermal straighted (pressed). Use large barrel curls or curl with thermal (marcel) irons. T hen comb the hair into a suitable style.

Oriental Features
Follow hairstyling rules that relate to the particular face shape.

For women, the oriental hairstyle is very versatile in that it may be combed into a side-upward movement, or into a loose fluffy page-boy style. This is achieved by following the hair outward or inward.

Next week, I'll finish this series with a discussion on eyes and styling for those who wear glasses.

Heads Up! Show me that Profile!

Last week I introduced the various facial types: Oval, Round, Square, Pear, Oblong, Diamond and Heart-Shape. In addition, I gave a description of the facial contour, to help you identify which face shape you have. As well, as what to aim for in your hairstyle to create balance and proportion to your face. Besides face type, there are two other factors to consider when choosing a hairstyle to ensure it flatters you. I will discuss those two points today: Profiles and Head Shapes. Next week, I'll address specific concerns that you may have.

The shape of one's head has just as many variations as the rest of one's physical features. Again the oval is considered the perfect shape. Your objective is to choose a hairstyle that will produce this shape by skilfully shaping and arranging the hair. For example, where there is flatness, the volume of the hair should be adjusted to fill the area. The complete outside shape of your hairstyle may be fashioned into many patterns and designs as long as the head shape has been ovalized.

The attached illustration (lower half) depicts the six head shapes. The heavy lines on the diagram outline the actual shape of the head, and the shaded areas (above the head) indicate where volume is required. In case you can't read the writing on the picture: the top row, right to left, are perfect shape, narrow head, flat crown. Then the bottom row, right to left are pointed head, flat top, small head. Again, the head shapes are as follows:

Head Shapes:
1) The perfect head shape (oval)
2) Narrow head, flat back.
3) The flat crown.
4) The pointed head shape, hollow nape.
5) The flat top.
6) Small head

The four profiles are described below and are illustrated on the attached diagram (upper half):

1) Straight: Usually, all hairstyles are becoming to the straight or normal profile. A normal profile is neither concave nor convex. It contains neither a prominent protrusion nor a receding feature.

2) Concave-Prominent Chin: A close hair arrangement or bangs over the forehead minimizes the bulginess of the forehead. The hair at the sides and nape of the neck can be dressed in soft waves or (for ladies) soft curls to soften the features.

3) Convex-Receding Forehead, Prominent Nose, And Receding Chin: Bangs (or curl) should be placed forward on the forehead to conceal the receding forehead and irregular hairline. The hair at the sides and nape of the neck should be dressed close to the head to give it perfect balance.

4) Low Forehead, Protruding Chin: To create the illusion of height to a low forehead and length to the face, the hair should be dressed high on the top of the head with bangs (or curls) on the forehead. An upsweet movement in the temple area with soft hair arrangement over the jawline will soften the sharpness of the chin.

Hopefully with these descriptions of profiles, head shapes [and last week] facial shapes you are able to identify which haircut/hairstyle would be most flattering to you!

Next week I'll address specific considerations including: nose shapes, uneven features, short/long necks, ethnic features. Then I'll conclude this series with a discussion on eyes (wide or close set) and flattering glasses.

To 'Do or Not to 'Do-Choose your Hairdo wisely!

If you have watched a style program, such as "What Not To Wear" (both the US and UK versions) or "How do I Look?" on the Style network, you know that the makeover process goes beyond wardrobe and accessories to include hair & make-up. Though I'm not a cosmetologist, as part of my fashion background I do know what physical features are taken into consideration by the pros. So I thought I would do some articles to discuss how your hairstyle and even glasses can visually create proportion to your face and ensure your appearance best suits you as an individual.

I will discuss the three key components for a flattering hairstyle: Facial type, profiles, and head shapes. Then I will touch on more specific physical attributes such as eyes, neck, nose and ethnic facial features in relation to creating balance in your appearance through hairstyling choices. Make-up is an additional tool that can help you create balance in your facial appearance-that will be discussed in another series later on.

Let's begin by presenting the different facial types. Facial types are determined by the position and prominence of the facial bones. There are seven facial types: oval, round, square, oblong, pear shape, heart shape, and diamond. To recognize each facial type and consequently choose the best hairstyle to frame your face, here are the outstanding characteristics of each:

Oval Face
The oval type is generally accepted as the perfect face. The contour and proportions of the oval face form the basis for modifying all other facial types.
Facial Contour: The oval face is about one and half times longer than its width across the brow; the forehead is slightly wider than the chin.
Any style can be worn as there are no features to minimize.

Round Facial Type
Facial Contour : Round hairline and round chinline.
Aim: To create the illusion of length to the face.
For instance, arranging the hair on top of the head and dressed over the ears and part of the cheeks with bangs to one side, will help to minimize the roundness of the face.

Square Facial Type
Facial Contour: Straight hairline and square jawline.
Aim: to create the illusion of length and offset the squareness of the features.
The problems of the square facial type are similar to those of the round. The style should lift off the forehead and come forward at the sides (and jaw), to create the illusion of narrowness and softness in the face.

Pear-Shape Facial Type
Facial Contour: Narrow forehead, wide jawline and chinline.
Aim: To create the illusion of width in the forehead.
Keep the hair dressed fairly full and high. Partially cover the forehead with a fringe of waved hair. For women, the hair should be worn with a semi-curl or soft-wave effect over the lower jawline. This arrangement will add apparent width to the forehead.

Oblong Facial Type:
Facial Contour: Long, narrow face with hallow cheeks.
Aim: To make the face appear shorter and wider.
The hair should be styled fairly close to the top of the head with a fringe of bangs (or curls), combined with fullness at the sides. The length of the face will appear reduced.

Diamond Facial Type
Facial Contour: Narrow forehead, extreme width through the cheekbones, and narrow chin.
Aim: To reduce the width across the cheekbone line.
Increasing the fullness across the forehead (and at the jawline), while keeping the hair close to the head at the cheekbone line will help to create the illusion of ovalness to the face.

Heart-Shape Facial Type
Facial Contour: Wide forehead and narrow chinline.
Aim: To decrease the width of the forehead and increase the width in the lower part of the face.
To reduce the width of the forehead, a hairstyle with a center part with bangs rolled up or a style slanted to one side is recommended. Women, add width and softness at the jawline.

Abaya Collection!

I've been busy finishing up a collection of abayas! I had the idea to make them out of cotton fabric which is much more comfortable to wear in a very hot and humid climate. Abayas are generally manufactured in synthetic fabrics as they are less likely to wrinkle and perhaps have some cost savings as well. However, the effect on the body of being encased in 100% polyester in 120 degree Fahrenheit and 95% humidity weather is almost unbearable! Especially because the synthetic fibers do not allow for easy air flow; this results in the wearer's body heat essentially being trapped and thus accelerates the increase of body temperature for the wearer. To add to the “sauna effect” the abayas sold in countries like Saudi Arabia are almost exclusively available in black.

In other areas of the world abayas come in various colors, silhouettes and designs. As long as the abaya accomplishes it's purpose (to ensure that a woman's body is covered and that her figure can not be easily recognized) one still has plenty of options in regards to fashion design. Recently, in the strict country of Saudi Arabia, variants of the abaya in color and shape are beginning to emerge. Abayas in colors such as dark chocolate brown and deep navy blue have been spotted around the more liberal cities of the country. Fashion forward young women have chosen to wear abayas in different silhouettes such as belted and even gaucho pant styles. However the women who dare to venture out in public wearing these different colors and styles are still very much a minority group. Black colored and extremely loose cut abayas are the accepted (and perhaps expected) style worn by the majority of women in Saudi Arabia.

So I decided in my line of cotton abayas, for Saudi residents, to maintain a black base in the color palette. However, I had to add splashes of color here and there on individual designs, throughout the collection. But I was careful in the placement of those colors on the abayas. To stay conservative I've kept them in a very full loose cut. To lessen the burden of having to iron the abayas I intentionally used a crinkled cotton fabric. I hope my customers are pleased with the line! If anything I know they will be happy to wear cotton in such an unforgiving climate. It has been an enjoyable design project for myself and depending on the reaction from customers, perhaps I will find myself doing more abaya designs.

Golden Years!

Thank you for your patience everyone. I was traveling throughout the USA and Europe for quite some time but now I am back home and ready to blog! I like to write articles that address specific needs of individuals that are often not discussed in mainstream fashion media. Such as clothing choices for new parents, expecting mothers, the disabled and so forth. One subject that I was prompted to write about is wardrobe selection for women going through the life change knows as menopause. For those of you not in this age group or gender, most likely you have someone in your life who could benefit from this article.

First of all, just because this change occurs doesn't mean a woman needs to start feeling unattractive or not feminine. Clothing can be used to highlight her beauty strengths and detract from areas of consciousness. For example, some women experience abdomen swelling. A protruding belly can easily be covered up without notice. For example, a scarf wrapped around the neck that hangs down to cover the stomach area, paired with a jacket. Or a blouse that is loose in the stomach area or has rouching on the sides (so the extra fabric covers the stomach). Avoid tight clothing that clings to the bulge and details/accessories that would attract attention to the area (such as a wide colorful belt). To increase your sense of femininity choose colors, prints and details that are associated with women. Colors like pink, purple, pastel shades; floral prints; a butterfly necklace or heart earrings are all examples of adding a feminine touch to your appearance. Also wearing skirts and dresses more often will create that connection to femininity.

Another common experience for women going through menopause is hot flashes. The best way to cope is to wear clothing in natural fibers such as cotton and linen. I know how difficult it can be sometimes to find 100% cotton garments, so choose blends that are dominated by natural fibers, such as 80% cotton or linen mixed with 20% synthetic such as rayon or polyester. Wearing 100% rayon, polyester or other synthetics, will prove extremely uncomfortable when a hot flash hits. Make sure if wearing layers, that choices are in lightweight fabrics. For example, a light and delicate silk scarf will prove more comfortable and bearable through the day [as hot flashes come and go], than a thick wool scarf. Another tip to help you feel more confident is to use disposable underarm perspiration pads. These are easy to find and relatively inexpensive. They can be placed on the inside of your blouse or jacket to help protect your clothing from perspiration. Usually they have Velcro on one side so they can easily be adhered and them removed. Keeping some perfume and a small deodorant in your purse and/or desk drawer at work is not a bad idea either.

With these slight adjustments in wardrobe a woman can continue to feel attractive and confident regardless of natures changes.

Control your curves!

Hips
For large hips
Choose: Darker pant (skirt) than your top top, unless you are too short. Box jacket to balance hips. For women, gored skirts or princess styles. Also pleated skirts that avoid bulk and hang well. Emphasize a small waist when possible.

Avoid: Tight, straight and tapered pants (tight & straight skirts). Contrasting bright plain or plaid/patterned slacks (or skirts). Trimming and pockets below the waistline. Long, fitted jackets. Bulky (or flimsy fabrics on skirts). Contrasting bright plain colors or prints, solid and smooth is much better for your bottom half (pants or skirts). Heavy gathering and pleats will only add weight visually.

Narrow hips allow you to wear high-style designs and any boy-cut fashion. But if you hips are considerably narrower than your shoulders, you need to strive for balance by adding dimension to your hips. Wear hip pockets, cargo pants, pleats and more on the lower half of your outfit. For ladies, a full or gathered skirt will create balance with your larger upper half. Women, you are also one of the few who can wear a straight, boss jacket, but you must balance this line with a pleated or flared skirt.

If your hips are too wide, avoid pockets or excessive fullness at the hip-line. Often a loose vest works well to camouflage a wide hip. Avoid cinching your waist. For women, an a-line skirt works as long as it doesn't ride up, but an even better camouflage is a modified dirndl—not the lamp shade, but a very gentle gathering, about three inches more than the waistband, eased in evenly. Some slight fullness in a skirt or dress is always good on you.

To flatter all hips, choose briefs/panties that give a smooth line to your garment. Bikini/speedo style panties/briefs leave a ridge under slacks, unless you buy the kind with a wide band at the top. Smooth lines are youthful and sexy. The dent caused by your underpants isn't flattering. However, if you are wearing loose garments this is not necessarily an issue.

For a smooth line and best effect under slinky, revealing outfits, wear control-top panty hose or a whisper weight panty girdle.

Chest/Bust
This information is geared towards women. However, the same principles of creating portion apply for men. If you don't have a large chest than add visual weight with heavy fabrics, colors, prints, details, pockets, etc. If you have a large chest, than do the opposite to avoid drawing attention to your chest area. The idea is to look balanced in your appearance, not too heavy or too small in one area.

Full Bust
Best Bets: Loose tops (not too full), V-necks, open collars, silk shirts.
Risks: Tube top, dolman sleeves, tight knits, tight blouses, princess lines, patch pockets on shirts or dresses, lightweight fabrics that reveal bra lines, clinging fabrics, puffy sleeves.

Small bust
Best Bets: Easy flowing blouses.
Risks: Tight shirts (especially if full hipped).

Your bra can make or break the line of your outfit. Bra-less is fine for the woman with a youthful bust, but for the rest of us a bra is sexier and smoother. When you are wearing a bra, your nipple should be no more than three inches below your armpit (unless you are very full busted). Take a good look at yourself to be sure your bra is doing its job. It may not be.

Many women make the mistake of buying the cup too small and the band too large. Get the snuggest fit around your rib cage that is comfortable, and the largest cup that still fits smoothly. In addition, women are built either far apart or close together, and bras are designed in both fashions. Be sure you are buying a bra cut for you. If your breasts are slightly different sizes, still buy a bras with the snuggest fit around your rib cage and a cup that covers your slightly larger breast, then use a bit of padding/stuffing to fill in the other cup.

If your bust is very small, you will have to avoid necklines intended to show cleavage. But take heart. It is much easier to dress a small busted women that a large one. You can wear high-style clothes and all the wonderful blousy designs that the large-busted women must avoid. Be grateful for small blessings. There is no escaping the fact that a large bust is a difficult figure problem, partly because it is hard to find clothes that fit.

Here are some tips for the busty lady:
-Avoid sleeve lengths ending at the bust.
-Avoid horizontal lines at bust level—no seam, stripe, piping or similar details.
-Avoid a low yoke (or smocking) at the bust-line.
-Try garments that taper gently under the bust-line. Too much fullness adds bulk, whereas an outfit that is too fitted will accentuate your bust. Pass up a peasant blouse, which makes the figure fuller, in favor of a tailored blouse, which makes it slimmer. It is worthwhile to tailor or alter garments by adding a seam under the bust-line, thus slimming the midriff, removing excess fullness, and adding the illusion of length between the waist and bust.
-Avoid high-waisted looks.
-Keep your belts small, and if possible, the same color as your skirt/pant/dress. A self belt is good.
-Wear your collars open, and wear V neckline with lapels rather than high necklines with no detail, such as turtlenecks or crew necks.
-Vertical lines—a necklace, a seam, a slit, small button—all help to minimize a large bust-line.

Baby Got Back: Fanny & Waist

Waist
If you have an over-waistline bulge, jackets and cardigans are your friend. Avoid tight waistlines, tuck-in styles, closely fitted styles and contrasting or wide belts.

If you have a small waist, you're the lucky one who can have fun with belts. For the women: if your tiny waist is in the middle of an hourglass figure, with large bust & hips, take care not to look too nipped-in, or you will accentuate those other features. A gentle taper, with perhaps a tie belt, is your best look.

If your waist is wide, there's no point in calling attention to it. Use belts audaciously, keeping them narrow and the same color or fabric as the garment. Make use of the one-waist look with an over blouse or perhaps a second layer such as a loose vest or sweater. For ladies: Simply have a seam at the waist with no belt on one-piece garments. Look for princes styles or high- or low-waisted dresses.

A short-waisted individual would be wise to use a narrow self belt or no belt. If your waist is high, you need to leave as much room as possible between your chest and your waistline. For you, a gentle taper under the chest is effective in lengthening your midriff. When you wear separates, choose your belt to match your top, rather than your pants (or skirt). This trick adds length to your waist. Pants (and skirts) cut without a waistband are your best bet.

For a long waist, do the opposite. Unless your waist is large, use wide belts that match the color of your pant (skirt), thus bringing the eye up. Choose pants (and skirts) with waistbands, including high-waisted bands. You can also cheat a little with your waist seams, raising them half an inch or so above your real waistline.

Fanny
An ample derrière limits the number of styles you can wear, but is a fairly easy figure problem to cover. Be sure your pants fit properly, so they do not cup under the seat. The fit should be loose enough over your thighs to allow the fabric to flow smoothly from the fanny to the leg. For women: choose skirts with some fullness or an A-line, rather than a straight skirt.

The style of your jacket is important, and a softly fitted jacket, moderately tapered, is always your best bet. A box jacket, with its straight lines, will not work with a large derrière (Women, you may be able to wear the box jacket but only if it is short, above the crest of your fanny, and worn with a pleated or flared skirt). Avoid a box jacket altogether with pants. A tightly fitted jacket is equally unflattering, because it accentuates the curve of your fanny. Never wear a too-long jacket as an attempt to “cover up”. The length of your jacket must be determined from the front; it should be proportional to your total height and the length of your legs. A jacket that is too long for you only succeeds in making your legs look short and your body look to-heavy; you will ruin your total look. Instead, look proportioned and be sure your pants fit properly in back.

If your problem is a derrière that is too flat, you may wear a tapered or box jacket, but a closely fitted jacket is too form-fitting. Why not let the taper of your jacket suggest what is (or isn't) really there. (Of course, there are undergarment products if you really need to add some padding). Women, another option for you is to wear a skirt or dress with some fullness or a two-piece outfit that adds extra layers where it counts.

If you have a flat derrière, one that drops, or a curved (sway) back, you will need to alter your pants (and skirts) by removing excess fabric from the waistline in back. A pant (or skirt) that droops or cups in back is unflattering to any problem fanny.

One final note on the fanny: by the time you are thirty, gravity has usually worked its will and your fanny has dropped three inches or so. Check your shorts (and for women tennis dresses) for length in back as well as in front!

Next week, I'll be sharing more tips for other body curves-hips and bust/chest.

Go Out on a Limb: Arms & Legs

Arms
A wide cuff at the wrist shortens the look of your arm. If your arms are long, this is great; if they're short, avoid wide cuffs. An individual with long arms often has trouble finding sleeves that are long enough. Don't overlook the possibility of adding a cuff, even in a contrasting color.

Everyone can wear a long sleeve, but the three-quarter sleeve looks best on short persons or those with short arms. it is unflattering on long arms, or an individual with large hands and on tall people who want to minimize their height.

The short sleeve usually looks best if it falls one inch above or below the chest/bust line, rather than right at the point. (If you are small-chested/busted, it may not matter, however). A sleeve ending just about the elbow can look old, especially if it has a rolled cut or if our arms are heavy. In high-style clothing, this sleeve length can be attractive if you are slim and tall with average to long arms.

If your arms are heavy, avoid long sleeves that are tight or clingy-this accentuates fat.
Choose: Amply armholes, easy, comfortable, close-fitting sleeves. Three-quarter length sleeves or long sleeves. (Women add a scarf or stole for sleeveless styles).
Avoid: Sleeveless styles. Wide cuffs. Tight-fitting armholes and tight sleeves. Loose, flowing, wide or bulky sleeves.

Legs
Pants and long skirts are a great disguise for too heavy legs. Loose styles, like a gaucho pant, paired with boots work well. Keep fashion interest about the waist. The more going on at the top, the less desire to focus on legs. Tops lighter in color than skirts will also draw eyes away from legs. Pay special attention to shoes. The wrong style will make people look-just what you are trying to avoid. Choose simple shoes with enough bulk to balance leg. (Ladies avoid delicates shoes or stiletto heels). For short (and skirt) lengths just below knee is fine; try the mid-calf length if you like it; and wear ankle-length whenever its appropriate.

If your legs are short, avoid cuffs on your pants; wear shoes with heels to give the illusion of length; and keep your suit jackets relatively short--no lower than the crotch, and preferably at the break of your leg. Your shirts (if worn untucked) should be even shorter than your suit jackets for a balanced look. Remember, you are aiming for overall proportion. Many times in ladies fashion you will find garments with a high-waistline, these are excellent for giving an illusion of longer legs and height.

Although slightly long legs are an asset, too-long legs make it difficult to find clothes that fit and to achieve a well-proportioned look. Do wear pants with cuffs and wear jackets that end slightly below the crotch when viewed from the front. Avoid high-waisted styles in pants (skirts & dress) including wide belts. You can successfully wear tunics, low-waisted styles (if your hips allow) and trim on your hemline.

If your legs are of average length, your best suit jacket length with pants is at the crotch. For women, if wearing a knee length skirt, make sure your suit jacket is shorter in order to look proportioned.

Thighs
Heavy thighs are common, but they are the easiest figure flaw to disguise. Pants that are too tight call attention to your thighs, revealing their shape and size, whereas an inch of easement is slimming. So make sure your pant fits with ease over your thighs. Avoid pants that taper at the ankle, as this silhouette emphasizes the heavy thigh. The most flattering pants line is a slight flare or a straight leg with a hint of taper at the knee. For women, skirts and dresses with an A-line or slight fullness provide easy camouflage.

Chip on your shoulder?

Shoulders come in three general types: square, average-tapered, and sloped. Any neckline that is horizontal and shallow, such as a bateau, will make your shoulders look broader, even more so if they are square. Conversely, the opposite line, deep and narrow, such as a V-neckline, will make shoulders appear narrower and less square. (Ladies, avoid a halter top if you have either too-broad or too-narrow shoulders, as this line is unflattering to both). In summary:

Too broad or square shoulders:
Best Bets: Deep and narrow necklines. Raglan sleeves, drop shoulders, dolman sleeves, full coats, V-necks, strapless tops.
Avoid: Wide and shallow necklines. Full-cut big tops, largish coats and jackets, turtlenecks, bulky fabric.

Too narrow or sloped shoulders:
Best Bets: Wear shallow and wide necklines. Extend the shoulder line by slight padding. Set-in sleeves, small collars, boat necks, halter tops.
Avoid: Wear narrow and deep necklines. Raglan sleeves or too-tight sleeves. Limp, dropping fabrics. Strapless tops.

A lapel is always more flattering than a plain neckline if your shoulders are not your best feature. Lapels that point up and out broaden the shoulder, while lapels that point down narrow them. Buy whichever kind is appropriate for you. Scale the size of your lapels to the size of your body. A large lapel on a tiny body is overwhelming, but a flouncy collar that extends over the shoulder bones is flattering to all shoulders and is appropriate even for the small framed person if the fabric is not bulky.

Your shoulder seam is extremely important in creating the illusion of a good shoulder. A set-in sleeve is most flattering and can be adjusted to create a slimmer or wider look, depending on your need. For the broad of square shoulder, keep the placement of the shoulder seam right on the shoulder bone. You may even cheat by moving the seam in a quarter inch if you have enough fullness in the sleeve to allow arm room. The overweight individual can look slimmer in clothes with a crisp, narrow shoulder line and judicious placement of the shoulder seam.

Your shoulder treatment affects the look of your entire silhouette. For the sloped or narrow shoulder, let the seam extend a bit beyond your shoulder bone, to widen. the seam will give your shoulders the definition of shape they may lack. (A woman with a very large bust also may use this trick to call attention away from her bust and draw the eye up and out).

Such sleeve styles as bat wing, kimono, and raglan require a broad or squarish shoulder. The raglan, especially, tend to drop the shoulder downwards, so if you have sloping or narrow shoulders you should avoid this line. It is even chancy on shoulders with an average taper, though you can alter the line of these styles by adding a lapel or collar that points up or out.

In sleeveless tops you should follow the same principle as with the shoulder seam. Keep the edge of the garment on the shoulder bone for broad or square shoulders, slightly beyond the bone for narrow or sloped. A sleeveless top with the line inside the bone will accentuate either problem. This line is best for individuals with good, average shoulders.

Any detail on a shoulder with broaden or accentuate it. Epaulets, for example, should be removed from your outfit if you wish to minimize your shoulders, but they are great for adding dimension to shoulders that are too narrow, assuming an epaulet is your type.

There is no such thing as a right or wrong shoulder line, simply whatever is right or wrong for you. Remember you are creating balance: your hips and shoulders should visually look the same width (though men often want their shoulders to look broader). Perhaps the upward-pointed lapel is okay because it is balanced by pockets on the hips (or by a skirt with some fullness). The exception is the overweight individual, whose hips usually are wider than their shoulders and arms. It would be best to create a "slim" shoulder look rather than extending their shoulders to balance our their hips. Later, after they loose weight, they can compensate for a too-narrow shoulder.

Don't be afraid to be creative. Your tailor or your sewing machine has the power to improve the line of your outfit. Remove or add shoulder detail, change the direction of a collar, or change the placement of a shoulder seam. These are not difficult alternations, but do remember that you may need to lengthen a cuff if you're nipping in a shoulder.

Next week, find out about visual illusions using clothing for those arms and legs!

Jack Sprat & His Wife

Most of us are rarely satisfied with our current body weight. Some of you are trying to gain weight while the rest of us are trying to loose. Whilst you are working on your healthy diet and exercise plans you can make the most of your current weight with some inside fashion tips!

My blog posts the past two weeks have already addressed specific issues like tall/slender, tall/heavy, short/heavy, etc. So let's discuss some other body types (and body weights) and how to best dress what your parents gave you.

Tiny Petite Frame
-Go along with the scale that you are for the best look. That's in size and patterns.
-To create proportion have a hair cut that is cut close, a smooth cap about ear length to keep the head small.
-Choose styles with few details. Keep details small (avoid high pockets or big cuffs)
-Make sure your color key separates so they relate to each other. One color-head to toe but different ones for interest.
-Look for raised waistlines and fitted short pockets.
-Soft, light weight fabrics. Like silk and other fabrics that move with the body.
-Dainty prints in bright colors or pastels.
-Concentrate on simplicity and long linear design
-Styles like long leg, fitted waist slacks. For women, pleated skirts with sharp vertical lines.
-Medium width belts.
-Subtle vertical stripes.

Avoid:
-Flared boxy coats and long jackets.
-Bulky, rough fabrics or very stiff angular fabrics.
-Widely flared slacks
-Women: bouffant styles; widely flared smocks; clutter-too many ruffles, bows, or jewelry.

Large Body Frame
-Softly tailored style with flattering necklines.
-Plain fabrics with sufficient body to hang well without adding bulk.
-Single breasted styles with vertical emphasis
-Unbroken silhouette with straight or slightly flared fullness.
-Self belts
-Full-length or 3/4 sleeves.
-Middle values and lowered intensities.
-Ladies: matching Channel-type jacket worn with contrasting blouse.
-Men: If you are having trouble with wearing your pants (either have to wear belt at top of stomach/high waisted or below your stomach) opt for braces (similar to suspenders but more stylish). This is especially easy to do when worn underneath a jacket or blazer. Polo sweaters and vests in darker colors than your shirt will bring attention to your face and not your stomach.

Avoid
-Severely tailored suits
-Fitted long jackets
-Shiny or stiff fabrics
-Nubby fabrics or rough, masculine tweeds.
-Contrasting or wide belts.
-Short-waisted or bolero styles.
-Bold colors or large prints.
-Pastels and black.
-Sleeveless or very short sleeves.

To decrease your weight:
-Choose garments that fit well, but have sufficient ease.
-Full length or three-quarter sleeves.
-Self belts
-Vertical emphasis: vertical seams, narrow panels or gores
-Informal balance
-Diagonal closings
-Fabrics with enough body to drape and hang well.
-Smooth rather than nubby fabrics.
-Medium to dark values and lowered intensities.
-Wear colors that flatter you and will draw the eye upward to your face and away from your body.

Please avoid:
-Tight-fitting clothing
-No sleeves or very short-sleeves
-High or bulky collars
-Crisp, still or bulky fabrics.
-Transparent, or limp, clinging fabrics.
-Brilliant hues and very light values.
-Wide or contrasting belts.
-Double breasted styles.
-For the ladies: too-slim skirts without any fullness.
-Lots of black, contrary to popular belief it makes a body look larger.
-Women: tent dresses

To increase your weight:
-Horizontal emphasis; wide gores and paneling
- Prints and details
-Full sleeves
-Visually add weight to your outfit-think bulk, texture, print, accessories.

Next week I'll provide tips for specific body parts that anyone may want to flatter or hide despite their height or weight, such as shoulders.